Most people are surprised to discover that a pre-owned luxury marketplace exists. They might have dabbled a bit with eBay for odds n’ ends but haven’t heard of a specified marketplace for luxury designer accessories outside of local consignment boutiques.

I’ve worked within the pre-owned luxury designer industry for 7 years. You can only begin to imagine the amount of beautifully crafted luxury pieces I’ve seen. $5,000 Chanel bags do not phase me anymore. Limited edition $222,000 diamond encrusted Hermès bags do.

Now I authenticate with Vestiaire Collective. What appealed to me is their curated selection of luxury product and emphasis on authentication and quality control. Vestiaire Collective curates every product while most pre-owned marketplaces look like “garage sales” of sorts. In 2012, Vestiaire Collective signed the Fight Against Online Counterfeiting charter, an initiative by the French government aimed at reassuring customers that what they are buying is authentic.

When it comes to fakes, there is a broad spectrum. There are “bad” fakes that you can tell from a mile away as well as “good” fakes that look pretty darn close. When shopping pre-owned, arm yourself with the knowledge to tell real from fake to make the most out of those designer deals. Pay close attention to the materials, details, and overall construction.

Here are a few tips for identifying fakes for some of the most commonly forged luxury brands:

Louis Vuitton

The most replicated brand in its iconic monogram LV logo, so there are a few question you should ask yourself when considering a pre-owned Louis Vuitton:

1. Does the LV logo wrap all the way around? The LV logo should be right side up on the front but upside down on the back.

2. Is there a date code? Does it make sense? Certain styles of Louis Vuitton bags are manufactured in specific years and factory locations.

Chanel

Classic flaps, graffiti backpacks and the lego clutch are often replicated.

1. Check the “E” in “CHANEL”. The bottom “_” horizontal line of the “E” should extend past the top and middle.

2. Check the serial. The first 1 or two numbers in the serial correspond to the year of production. For instance, 21##### 2015 whereas serial’s starting with 0###### date as far back as the 80’s. Not having a serial or hologram does not always indicate a fake! Serial/holograms fall off, especially on vintage bags. Vintage items may have worn down logos but the quality and craftsmanship should maintain over time.

Hermès

Hermès has one of the highest the priciest price tags in the market with unfortunately a high percentage of fakes in circulation.

1. Is the casing really thick (the binding along the edges, similar to calking)? A lot of fakes have really thick and heavy casing to cover up poor construction.

2. On Birkin bags, take a look at the direction the interior pocket zipper pull is laying. It should stay horizontal even when you’re not zipping it. Fake zipper pulls hang vertical.

3. Also with Birkins – are the keys attached with an O ring? The keys on an authentic Hermès should be directly attached to the leather strap connected to the bag. Fakes often use circular metal ring.

4. Does it come with an orange authenticity card? Hermès never produced these. Run far away from any Hermès bag that comes with one of these.

5. Is the price too good to be true?

Goyard

One of the most difficult brands to authenticate. Goyard is starting to gain momentum within the US with the St. Louis tote as its most popular style.

1. Contrary to Louis Vuitton, the Goyardine logo should NOT wrap all the way around the bag. The “V” shape should always point downwards whether you’re looking at the front or the back of the bag.

2. Pay close attention to the stitching. Think of it as a runner on a race track or a car in a lane. If you see the stitching deviate from a straight line along the strip of leather, this is a red fag.

Céline

Céline resurged in the luxury marketplace 5 years ago with their Luggage Bag. Now seen on the arms of every, it-girl, blogger or fashionista, it is a highly replicated style.

1. Similar to Chanel, check the shape of the “E”. The bottom horizontal line of the “E” should extend past the top and middle.

2. Check the zipper head. A number or letter should be engraved on the tip. It is typically the number “8” or “1”.

3. Find the date code tab. All Céline bags have a date code. In luggage pieces, they can be found on a rectangular leather tab in the interior. Look out for leather tabs with too-round of corners. The format of the serial is L – L – #### on newer bags. L representing letters and the 2nd and 4th number typically indicating the year of production.

To view more pre-authenticated luxury, visit Vestiaire Collective offering over 3,000 new items listed each day.

Tips Provided By US Authentication Lead – Jacquelyne Cortel